Showing posts with label desert. Show all posts
Showing posts with label desert. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Part 2: Fort Davis and Indian Lodge

If you missed it, part one documents our road trip out to west Texas and stay at Hotel Paisano. Phase two of our trip entailed hiking around the Fort Davis mountains. 

During our second hike (5 hours up, across, and down a big ol' mountain) we encountered about 10 aoudads on the side of a steep mountainside where the trail narrowed to just fit your feet and there was no room for error, nothing to break your fall if you tumbled left, just sharp rocks and cacti piercing you as you slide and roll. What's an aoudad? A Barbary sheep, they say. It looks like a cross between a deer and a ram; it has those magnificent curly horns. We don't have any pictures because we were stunned and if you move they take off, which they did when "one" of us moved. It's amazing how quickly they can run down such a steep grade with rocks and such. 

We forgot to visit the actual fort because we were enjoying the state park, Indian Lodge grounds, and surrounding area roads and land. The drive to Fort Davis is amazing and hopefully I'll have some good analog shots once I get the film developed. I can't tell you what quiet country roads, the sound of wind through fields, and watching enormous cows not giving a shit does for me. 

This old woman [La Loba, Wild Woman, The One Who Knows] stands between the worlds of rationality and mythos. She is the knuckle and bone on which these two worlds turn. This land between the worlds is that inexplicable place we all recognize once we experience it, but its nuances slip away and shape-change if one tries to pin them down, except when we use poetry, music, dance . . . or story.

- Clarissa Pinkola Estés, Ph.D., Women Who Run With The Wolves, Myths and Stories of the Wild Woman Archetype


The night we stayed at Indian Lodge we sat outside bundled up (it's definitely chilly in the winter time - we were there the first week in November) to look at the stars. It took my eyes a minute or so to adjust and suddenly all the jillions of stars came into focus. The sky was so clear. A while later, again, suddenly things came into focus - it was like I could see the entire solar system, every star and galaxy. The sky looked like one of those detailed science photos or a drawing that maps everything out. Tri-iipy! I've never seen more stars in my life. 

Now, for the conclusion of our star gazing, I don't know if anyone believes us when we tell the story but ... at one point we both were sitting quietly when a mass of light hovered on the side of the mountain we faced. It was like a fog but as I mentioned earlier, it was a clear night. There aren't city lights reflecting anywhere; you're in the mountains with no cell service at Indian Lodge itself. We looked around - no car headlights, no lights on in the rooms facing that mountainside and even if light was leaking out of any windows it wouldn't reach out in a floating mass that far. It didn't last long and just as it appeared, it simply vanished.   

Third post in the west Texas series up next: Marfa and El Cosmico. 

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

From the Sonoran Desert Through the Mountains and Forests to the Northern Verde Valley in Sedona

I've talked about the magic of the Arizona desert before. It is magic and it is dangerous. It is quiet and like being inside of a living painting. It is the perfect place to space out. The wind just seems to carry off any stress-inducing thoughts and dissipates them into nothingness. Once your head is clear then you have space for creative ideas, pure positivity, and the time and gumption to ponder thoughts until the cows come home.

We started in Fountain Hills and road tripped our way through small towns Black Canyon City, Payson, Pine, and Strawberry (among others) to land in Sedona a few hours later. We hit a couple small snowstorms along the way, expanding on the magic and power of nature. It is humbling.

We went from desert lowland in the valley, etched with cactus and gritty, pebbled sand to climbing mountains, furried green and round. For a stretch it seemed that we were in the real America -- whatever that is but it seemed like a more innocent time and unwithered place where most people had a strength of character and respect for life. The mountains formed a barrier and ruled the roost. The road was narrow and long and the land on either side of that stretch was occasionally dotted with cows.

When we reached high plains we could look out over plateaus in a distance that was immense. It was a history lesson. Traveling higher, we wound through a forest (video to follow in the next blog post) and reached what I know now as the peak in our adventure. It looked and felt like I was literally level to the horizon. An untouched blanket of snow formed a panorama around us and the landscape was similar to that of the Texas Hill Country area.

Eventually, after numerous stops to photograph what caught our eyes and a visit to a wonderful antique shop we landed in Sedona, a 360 degree view of multi-colored and jagged red rock sandstone formations and deep southwestern colors.

The change in the landscape from the Sonoran Desert through the mountains and forest to the Northern Verde Valley in Sedona is powerful.

    













Death in the desert. I love it.

Crazy - a dead Saguaro cactus. Looks like a deflated cartoon character.



A white horse! A freaking magic unicorn high up in the distance! Mustangs! Wild, wild horses. Could drag me away.

El Encanto. Great Mexican in Fountain Hills.

We look forward to seeing Stephanie each time we visit Sofrita, our favorite restaurant in Fountain Hills. Lovely tapas. Stephanie is also a talented singer/songwriter. Check her out at kniffinmusic.com 







Yes, there is a lake in the desert.